Behind the scenes

I've been ruminating on this for a while now. What do we (cooks) do behind the scenes to get ready for a feast? What are the costs in terms of time and energy? Things not normally documented or talked about very much.

First thing we rarely talk about is the actual monetary costs that go into planning a feast. In general the idea is to charge for food what we need to cover the cost of all supplies to cook, clean and present the food for an event but what does this translate to for me at home? That answer varies but in general I would say the average at home output in food costs is around 150€. This does not account for water, cleaning supplies, electricity and maintenance of  pots and pans. This is a rough estimate, I have never actually calculated my costs for redacting. I could be way off but if I am it is because I ballparked too low. In this manner I feel for the scribal community and understand the 'price' that the art that you generously donate comes with. I get it and I'm grateful. Supplies for practice, supplies for finished products, time given to research and technique. I feel you because I do the same thing. I can spend what amounts to hundreds of euros to test and retest recipes, on spices that are used for one thing and one thing only but you need it to get it 'right', just for one feast. For one moment that is sure to pass into memory and blend in with a multitude of other foods, feasts and memories. If you are lucky someone will hold onto that memory and it will stay with them. That is the biggest difference between what you do (the scribe) and what I do ( the cook). My art is fleeting and temporary. It is meant to be consumed but hopefully not to be forgotten.

The planning for my two largest feasts to date, Drachenwald's Silver Anniversary/ coronation and Known World Dance Symposium, the planning stages each started more than a year in advance. First was to decide with the autocrat if there would need to be  'theme' or desired direction for the feast / food to take. Second, if there was no desired direction was to pick a direction. At the time of KWDS I was intent on the study of Scappi and so it became my focus for the feast. The rest of the food, lunches and suppers, I chose to look for period recipes but didn't stick to any one culture or time period. For silver Anniversary feast I wanted to represent as much of Drachenwald as I could reasonably do and so I narrowed the field to 16th century but broadened it to as many countries as I could find that fit the time frame. Both events had me exploring for hours on end but in very different ways. For each of them number of dishes, meat dishes vs vegetable dishes and suitable starches were always in my mind. I detailed my process I use here on the blog once before but my usual start is to choose the resources, read them through, then read them through noting the recipes that peak my interest. I read through again paying more attention to ingredients and looking for that balance I just spoke of. I narrow my field to tests recipes and then I test them.

Testing is more complex than it sounds. Testing involves redacting it first. The first redaction is almost never the final redaction. I have gotten quite lucky with a handful of simple and basic recipes that were fantastic my first try, and only because we have modern equivalents that I am already comfortable making. Of these first tries I begin to weed down the choices. My criteria changes based on the kitchen facilities I am using. I have used kitchens where baking was a dream, with a very large industrial oven, and I have been in others where baking was just not a good option. My criteria changes with the size of the event as well as certain attendees and what their 'station' is at the moment. Silver Anniversary feast was cooked completely without onion, garlic or saffron as the Queen who was stepping up has an allergy. I have cooked for her as a 'participant of events as well and how I plan for each is different.

Once testing is done I review the recipes and usually have to weed down ever further, to have the 'balance' I was speaking of. Now is the review and finalizing the menu. making notes on changes that need to be made or substitutions because of allergies or other dietary restrictions, and testing to make sure they still produce a quality dish with the substitutions. Do I need an extra dish or two? What do I feed the vegetarians? care and feeding of the vegetarians is another previous post but each time I plan a feast it is something I must be mindful of and do.

After I have a menu, and recipes, now starts the lists! I love my lists. Lists of ingredients, multiplication of the recipe list, list of tools I need, list, list , list!!!!! I am not finished until the last item is prepared and served, and even then I am not completely done. I listen around and ask for feedback on dishes to see what still needs work where. I make notes while cooking, on things that I may have changed on the fly or because of issues.