Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Recipe 12, 13 an14 ?!

Yes folks it turns out I can't count. LOL

These last 3 recipes are being put here for completeness. I did not redact them. I used the redactions of other people for several reasons. First, Ottoman is not my wheelhouse and I did not have time to fully explore it and do it justice while simultaneously exploring 4 other European countries that I had not previously delved into. Second, I suffer from a dietary restriction that precludes me from eating pork but this does not mean that those I serve can not eat it :) Normally i work within my restrictions but I wanted to branch out for diversity.

For the pork with lemon sauce I used a recipe from Mater Gianno that he redacted for a camping cookbook he put together several years ago. Below is his recipe, it was taken from Ein New Kochbuch,

1581, Marx Rumpolt, Germany

Pork in Lemon Sauce
1 kg pork roast
2 lemons ( bio ) 500 ml white wine vinegar 2-3 slices of white bread ( 70 gm breadcrumbs) 15 gm Peppercorns lightly crushed

Bring vinegar, with 2-3 cups of water, to a boil
Add quartered lemons and pepper
Cook gently for 1 hour
Remove all solids
Place pork in the pot and cook gently until done, about 1 hour
Remove all solids again
Thicken the sauce with the bread (crumbs)

Slice pork, place in sauce to reheat through and serve

The Ottoman recipes were provided by lalla Urtatim al-Qurtubiyya bint 'abd al-Karim al-Hakam al- Fass Kingdom of the West, Principality of the Mists, at the suggestion of Master Gianno. Translated and redacted from Turkish by the same from the book Á la Table du Grand Turd and The Manuscript of Shirvânî.

Candied Lamb
1400 gm sheep meat (mutton or lamb, increase purchase weight by 500gm if on the bone)
1400 gm Apples ( split uses 625 gm peeled and cored only, 700 gm peeled cored and thin sliced)
750 ml of natural apple juice
800 gm sugar
200 gm powdered sugar
500 gm almonds or 150 gm toasted walnuts (for top sprinkle)
50 gm wheat starch
350 gm Dates (with pits)
500 ml Rosewater
Roll of musk flavored Lifesavers

Place cubed meat in a pot
Barely cover with water bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer
Simmer until all the liquid is gone and the meat browns in it’s own fat
Melt 800 gm of sugar with enough water to make thick syrup
Cook the whole apples in the syrup by bringing to a boil 3 times
Brushing the sides down with rosewater and adding Rosewater if it gets too thick
Set apples 1 at a time on a dish
Add meat to the syrup with the apple juice and simmer
Add the sliced apples and 300 gm almonds, chopped ( if using, if not just add apples)
Crush the starch in rosewater, pit and chop the dates ( in quarters) add to pot
Crush Lifesavers with rosewater, add to the pot with salt to taste
Crush more Lifesavers in rosewater
Mix the rest of the nuts with the powdered sugar

Plate the meat with the whole apples on top
Sprinkle with nuts and musked rosewater

Senbuse Mukallele [pronounce all the "e"s] - Crowned Triangles
Original Recipe
late 15th C. Ottoman translation and alteration by Mehmed Shirvani of the 13th C. recipe from al-Baghdadi's Kitâb al-Tabîkh
Translated by Stephane Yersimos from Eski Osmanlici (Old Ottoman) into French.
Translated by me from French into English.
The art of preparing them is the same as that of the senbuse, with the difference that for the mukallele one brays sugar and almonds, one kneads it all with musk and rose water and one fills the dough in place of meat (one takes the dough, one works it in fine leaves, one cuts it in strips, one places the filling, and one fashions them in the form of a triangle). Next one fries them in the frying pan in sesame oil and certain people after having taken them out of the sesame oil plunge them in sugar syrup, they take the out of the syrup and they eat them. They plunge them in sugar in powder mixed with musk or camphor.
--- Shirvani's translation of al-Baghdadi, folio 69
--- pp. 124-125, À la table du Grand Turc
My Version
Makes 150 to 200 for the Fall Investiture Ottoman Feast
For Spring Investiture i made about 1/3 of this recipeHow to fold Senbuse
1360 gm ground almonds
1 kg granulated sugar
250 ml rosewater
1 package phyllo 500 gm
clarified melted butter or sesame oil
cold pressed sesame oil for frying
    NOTE: do NOT use dark roasted sesame oil
            regular sesame oil is sold in natural food stores and some gourmet markets

1kg granulated sugar for syrup
750 ml water for syrup

110gm powdered sugar
30gm ground cinnamon
1 capful small bottle mint extract
Assemble Senbuse:
  1. Mix almonds, sugar, and rosewater to make a paste in a food processor.
  2. Cover several sheet pans with baking parchment paper.
  3. Fold each sheet of phyllo in half, then fold it in thirds, and cut along folds to make 6 strips.
  4. Phyllo not in immediate use needs to be covered with paper (waxed paper or baking parchment paper), then with a water-moistened, not wet, towel.
  5. Brush phyllo with melted butter.
  6. Place a very small amount of the almond paste at the end of the strip and fold diagonally into a triangle, then continue folding - like folding the American flag before putting it away. [i can make a graphic]
  7. Place each pastry triangle on the parchment on the baking sheet. When a sheet is full, put it in the freezer.
  8. Continue to make and fold Senbuse and put in freezer. After about 1/2 hour a sheet's worth will be frozen enough to put in a double-zip freezer bag. Keep frozen.
  1. Put 1/4 cup of sesame oil into a large wok or other wide pan and heat until a drop of water sizzles and evaporates.
  2. Fry frozen pastries until golden brown. Regulate heat - oil should not burn, but pastries should brown.
  3. As they fry, put them on a plate covered with paper towel.
  4. As oil is used up add another couple tablespoons.
  5. Continue until all pastries are done.
  1. If desired, make syrup with 2 lb sugar and 3 cups water.
  2. Just before serving cover the fried triangles with the sugar syrup.
    We did not bother to do this.
  1. Put about 1 cup powdered sugar in a bowl, add ground cinnamon and mix until well-blended.
  2. Sprinkle mint extract evenly over sugar, then mix well to distribute evenly throughout.
  3. Dust pastries with flavored sugar.
NOTE 1: I used this blend of cinnamon and mint to simulate camphor, which is not really safe for consumption. Camphor has a menthol-like coolness, hence the mint, and is in the same family of trees as cinnamon, hence the cinnamon. Also, Yerasimos notes that they are seasoned with cinnamon in the Nazmu't-tebayi', a work of medicine from the beginning of the 15th century.
NOTE 2: For people with dietary issues, we also made about 1 dozen of these using ground almonds and Splenda(tm), served with no sugar syrup or powdered sugar.
NOTE 3: These can be completely finished the day before serving, or fold the pastries many days ahead of time and freeze, then fry the day before serving or on site

Thursday, November 8, 2018

Recipe 11 Salted Beets

Koge Bog, 1616 Salomone Sartorio, Denmark, PDF from

XXVII. To salt beetroot.

First put in a still two bricks on the edge, thereon put some pieces of wood and then pour water in, but not close to the wood. On these same pieces of wood the beets are put and hten the helmet is put on. Put it under a good fire so that the beets can cook in the steam, but not too soft. When they are cooked, cleaned and cold they are cut into thin slices. Put in small pieces (like chopped lard) of horse radish, and of aforementioned cut beets first a layer is put into a new glazed pot: thereon sprinkle of the same horseradish, danish cumin, small crushed pepper and a little salt: then another layer of beets, and another of the aforementioned herbs is sprinkled over. Then you pour over a good Alegar, or half Alegar and half wine vinegar, as much as covers the beets. Then put a lid on wiht a good weight, and tie over a clean cloth and put it in a comfortable place. A few days after they can be used, but don’t touch it with bare fingers.

XXIIX. Lutendranck at berede.

Disse effterskreffne Species skulle stødis groffue oc formengis.

R. Cardemomme -------- 5. Lod

Ingefer -----------------------3.
Quintin Canel ------------ 4. Lod
Muskater ------------------ 3. Quintin
Paradisskorn ------------ 1. Lod

Naar mand vil giøre to Støbicken eller otte Potter vijn til Lutendranck/da skal først sættis en Messing Pande paa Ilden/met to Pund sucker/oc aff fornæffnde Vijn to Potter der paa slaget. Lad samme Vijn met Suckeret bekomme en opsød. Naar Vijnen oc Suckeret nu siuder/da giff 8. Lod aff forne støtte Species der vdi/strax tagendis det fra Ilden/igiennem en Lutendrancks Pose slaget/der paa giff de andre 6. Potter Vijn kolde/oc lad en gang 3. eller 4. lecke igiennem samme Pose/indtil den bliffuer klar/saa er hand beridt. Giffuer du en Skeefuld sød Melck/eller det huide aff et Eg der vdi/saa bliffuer den strax klar. Vilt du giøre det nogit ringere. R. Aff forbemelte støtte oc sammenmengde Vrter 5. Lod. Sucker 1 1/2 Pund/Der met handlis/lige som forskreffuit staar. Anderledis/oc ringere.
Canelbarck --------5. Lod.

Cardemom --------2. Lod.
Sucker ------------ 1. Pund.

To salt Beetroot

2 kg Beets  (raw) or 1.5 kg (cooked and peeled)

300 gm Horseradish whole roots

2 Tablespoon Cumin

4 Tablespoon Peppercorns


1 liter Malt vinegar ( or use 2 liters and forget wine vinegar)

1liter Wine vinegar

Steam and clean the beets


Cut small pieces of Horseradish layer in bottom of non reactive ( non metal ) container

Sprinkle cumin, pepper and a little salt

Repeat in layers

Pour malt vinegar or vinegar mix over top to cover

Set aside for a few days before serving

Wednesday, November 7, 2018

Recipe 10 A thick soup of peas

The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi, Italy, 1570

Recipe # 188 book 2 page 234

To prepare a thick soup of fresh peas or broad beans in a meat broth.
     Get fresh peas in their season, which in Rome goes from the end of March throughout June - as is that also for fresh broad beans. Shell the peas and put them into an earthenware or copper pot with fat broth and pork jowl in slices. Boil them until they are almost cooked. Put in a handful of beaten anise and parsley and finish off cooking. If you want a thicker broth, grind up a little of the cooked peas, put that through a strainer and mix it among the whole peas, adding pepper and cinnamon. Serve them with the slices of pork jowl.
     With peas you can also cook stuffed goat-kid heads, their hair removed, and young cockrels, doves, young goslings and ducklings.
     You can also do peas in a different way: after they are cooked in broth they can be combined with eggs, cheese and spices.
     Beans can be done in all the above ways.

My redaction:

500 gm Peas, Broadbeans or Lima beans ( if fresh, this is post hulling weight)
1.5 liter Fat Meat broth
1.5 Tablespoon Anise seed
150 gm Parsely
300 gm Pork jowl

Simmer peas in fat meat broth with the pork jowl
When they are almost done add beaten anise and parsely chopped fine
Finish off cooking