Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Recipe 12, 13 an14 ?!

Yes folks it turns out I can't count. LOL

These last 3 recipes are being put here for completeness. I did not redact them. I used the redactions of other people for several reasons. First, Ottoman is not my wheelhouse and I did not have time to fully explore it and do it justice while simultaneously exploring 4 other European countries that I had not previously delved into. Second, I suffer from a dietary restriction that precludes me from eating pork but this does not mean that those I serve can not eat it :) Normally i work within my restrictions but I wanted to branch out for diversity.

For the pork with lemon sauce I used a recipe from Mater Gianno that he redacted for a camping cookbook he put together several years ago. Below is his recipe, it was taken from Ein New Kochbuch,

1581, Marx Rumpolt, Germany


Pork in Lemon Sauce
1 kg pork roast
2 lemons ( bio ) 500 ml white wine vinegar 2-3 slices of white bread ( 70 gm breadcrumbs) 15 gm Peppercorns lightly crushed

Bring vinegar, with 2-3 cups of water, to a boil
Add quartered lemons and pepper
Cook gently for 1 hour
Remove all solids
Place pork in the pot and cook gently until done, about 1 hour
Remove all solids again
Thicken the sauce with the bread (crumbs)

Slice pork, place in sauce to reheat through and serve

The Ottoman recipes were provided by lalla Urtatim al-Qurtubiyya bint 'abd al-Karim al-Hakam al- Fass Kingdom of the West, Principality of the Mists, at the suggestion of Master Gianno. Translated and redacted from Turkish by the same from the book Á la Table du Grand Turd and The Manuscript of Shirvânî.

Candied Lamb
1400 gm sheep meat (mutton or lamb, increase purchase weight by 500gm if on the bone)
1400 gm Apples ( split uses 625 gm peeled and cored only, 700 gm peeled cored and thin sliced)
750 ml of natural apple juice
800 gm sugar
200 gm powdered sugar
500 gm almonds or 150 gm toasted walnuts (for top sprinkle)
50 gm wheat starch
350 gm Dates (with pits)
500 ml Rosewater
Roll of musk flavored Lifesavers

Place cubed meat in a pot
Barely cover with water bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer
Simmer until all the liquid is gone and the meat browns in it’s own fat
Melt 800 gm of sugar with enough water to make thick syrup
Cook the whole apples in the syrup by bringing to a boil 3 times
Brushing the sides down with rosewater and adding Rosewater if it gets too thick
Set apples 1 at a time on a dish
Add meat to the syrup with the apple juice and simmer
Add the sliced apples and 300 gm almonds, chopped ( if using, if not just add apples)
Crush the starch in rosewater, pit and chop the dates ( in quarters) add to pot
Crush Lifesavers with rosewater, add to the pot with salt to taste
Crush more Lifesavers in rosewater
Mix the rest of the nuts with the powdered sugar

Plate the meat with the whole apples on top
Sprinkle with nuts and musked rosewater





Senbuse Mukallele [pronounce all the "e"s] - Crowned Triangles
Original Recipe
late 15th C. Ottoman translation and alteration by Mehmed Shirvani of the 13th C. recipe from al-Baghdadi's Kitâb al-Tabîkh
Translated by Stephane Yersimos from Eski Osmanlici (Old Ottoman) into French.
Translated by me from French into English.
The art of preparing them is the same as that of the senbuse, with the difference that for the mukallele one brays sugar and almonds, one kneads it all with musk and rose water and one fills the dough in place of meat (one takes the dough, one works it in fine leaves, one cuts it in strips, one places the filling, and one fashions them in the form of a triangle). Next one fries them in the frying pan in sesame oil and certain people after having taken them out of the sesame oil plunge them in sugar syrup, they take the out of the syrup and they eat them. They plunge them in sugar in powder mixed with musk or camphor.
--- Shirvani's translation of al-Baghdadi, folio 69
--- pp. 124-125, À la table du Grand Turc
My Version
Makes 150 to 200 for the Fall Investiture Ottoman Feast
For Spring Investiture i made about 1/3 of this recipeHow to fold Senbuse
Senbuse:
1360 gm ground almonds
1 kg granulated sugar
250 ml rosewater
1 package phyllo 500 gm
clarified melted butter or sesame oil
cold pressed sesame oil for frying
    NOTE: do NOT use dark roasted sesame oil
            regular sesame oil is sold in natural food stores and some gourmet markets

Syrup:
1kg granulated sugar for syrup
750 ml water for syrup

Garnish:
110gm powdered sugar
30gm ground cinnamon
1 capful small bottle mint extract
Assemble Senbuse:
  1. Mix almonds, sugar, and rosewater to make a paste in a food processor.
  2. Cover several sheet pans with baking parchment paper.
  3. Fold each sheet of phyllo in half, then fold it in thirds, and cut along folds to make 6 strips.
  4. Phyllo not in immediate use needs to be covered with paper (waxed paper or baking parchment paper), then with a water-moistened, not wet, towel.
  5. Brush phyllo with melted butter.
  6. Place a very small amount of the almond paste at the end of the strip and fold diagonally into a triangle, then continue folding - like folding the American flag before putting it away. [i can make a graphic]
  7. Place each pastry triangle on the parchment on the baking sheet. When a sheet is full, put it in the freezer.
  8. Continue to make and fold Senbuse and put in freezer. After about 1/2 hour a sheet's worth will be frozen enough to put in a double-zip freezer bag. Keep frozen.
Fry:
  1. Put 1/4 cup of sesame oil into a large wok or other wide pan and heat until a drop of water sizzles and evaporates.
  2. Fry frozen pastries until golden brown. Regulate heat - oil should not burn, but pastries should brown.
  3. As they fry, put them on a plate covered with paper towel.
  4. As oil is used up add another couple tablespoons.
  5. Continue until all pastries are done.
Syrup:
  1. If desired, make syrup with 2 lb sugar and 3 cups water.
  2. Just before serving cover the fried triangles with the sugar syrup.
    We did not bother to do this.
Garnish:
  1. Put about 1 cup powdered sugar in a bowl, add ground cinnamon and mix until well-blended.
  2. Sprinkle mint extract evenly over sugar, then mix well to distribute evenly throughout.
  3. Dust pastries with flavored sugar.
NOTE 1: I used this blend of cinnamon and mint to simulate camphor, which is not really safe for consumption. Camphor has a menthol-like coolness, hence the mint, and is in the same family of trees as cinnamon, hence the cinnamon. Also, Yerasimos notes that they are seasoned with cinnamon in the Nazmu't-tebayi', a work of medicine from the beginning of the 15th century.
NOTE 2: For people with dietary issues, we also made about 1 dozen of these using ground almonds and Splenda(tm), served with no sugar syrup or powdered sugar.
NOTE 3: These can be completely finished the day before serving, or fold the pastries many days ahead of time and freeze, then fry the day before serving or on site

Thursday, November 8, 2018

Recipe 11 Salted Beets




Koge Bog, 1616 Salomone Sartorio, Denmark, PDF from Medievalcookery.com



XXVII. To salt beetroot.

First put in a still two bricks on the edge, thereon put some pieces of wood and then pour water in, but not close to the wood. On these same pieces of wood the beets are put and hten the helmet is put on. Put it under a good fire so that the beets can cook in the steam, but not too soft. When they are cooked, cleaned and cold they are cut into thin slices. Put in small pieces (like chopped lard) of horse radish, and of aforementioned cut beets first a layer is put into a new glazed pot: thereon sprinkle of the same horseradish, danish cumin, small crushed pepper and a little salt: then another layer of beets, and another of the aforementioned herbs is sprinkled over. Then you pour over a good Alegar, or half Alegar and half wine vinegar, as much as covers the beets. Then put a lid on wiht a good weight, and tie over a clean cloth and put it in a comfortable place. A few days after they can be used, but don’t touch it with bare fingers.







XXIIX. Lutendranck at berede.

Disse effterskreffne Species skulle stødis groffue oc formengis.

R. Cardemomme -------- 5. Lod

Ingefer -----------------------3.
Quintin Canel ------------ 4. Lod
Muskater ------------------ 3. Quintin
Paradisskorn ------------ 1. Lod


Naar mand vil giøre to Støbicken eller otte Potter vijn til Lutendranck/da skal først sættis en Messing Pande paa Ilden/met to Pund sucker/oc aff fornæffnde Vijn to Potter der paa slaget. Lad samme Vijn met Suckeret bekomme en opsød. Naar Vijnen oc Suckeret nu siuder/da giff 8. Lod aff forne støtte Species der vdi/strax tagendis det fra Ilden/igiennem en Lutendrancks Pose slaget/der paa giff de andre 6. Potter Vijn kolde/oc lad en gang 3. eller 4. lecke igiennem samme Pose/indtil den bliffuer klar/saa er hand beridt. Giffuer du en Skeefuld sød Melck/eller det huide aff et Eg der vdi/saa bliffuer den strax klar. Vilt du giøre det nogit ringere. R. Aff forbemelte støtte oc sammenmengde Vrter 5. Lod. Sucker 1 1/2 Pund/Der met handlis/lige som forskreffuit staar. Anderledis/oc ringere.
Canelbarck --------5. Lod.

Cardemom --------2. Lod.
Sucker ------------ 1. Pund.







To salt Beetroot



2 kg Beets  (raw) or 1.5 kg (cooked and peeled)

300 gm Horseradish whole roots

2 Tablespoon Cumin

4 Tablespoon Peppercorns

Salt

1 liter Malt vinegar ( or use 2 liters and forget wine vinegar)

1liter Wine vinegar



Steam and clean the beets

Slice

Cut small pieces of Horseradish layer in bottom of non reactive ( non metal ) container

Sprinkle cumin, pepper and a little salt

Repeat in layers

Pour malt vinegar or vinegar mix over top to cover

Set aside for a few days before serving

Wednesday, November 7, 2018

Recipe 10 A thick soup of peas


The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi, Italy, 1570

Recipe # 188 book 2 page 234

To prepare a thick soup of fresh peas or broad beans in a meat broth.
   
     Get fresh peas in their season, which in Rome goes from the end of March throughout June - as is that also for fresh broad beans. Shell the peas and put them into an earthenware or copper pot with fat broth and pork jowl in slices. Boil them until they are almost cooked. Put in a handful of beaten anise and parsley and finish off cooking. If you want a thicker broth, grind up a little of the cooked peas, put that through a strainer and mix it among the whole peas, adding pepper and cinnamon. Serve them with the slices of pork jowl.
     With peas you can also cook stuffed goat-kid heads, their hair removed, and young cockrels, doves, young goslings and ducklings.
     You can also do peas in a different way: after they are cooked in broth they can be combined with eggs, cheese and spices.
     Beans can be done in all the above ways.


My redaction:

500 gm Peas, Broadbeans or Lima beans ( if fresh, this is post hulling weight)
1.5 liter Fat Meat broth
1.5 Tablespoon Anise seed
150 gm Parsely
300 gm Pork jowl

Simmer peas in fat meat broth with the pork jowl
When they are almost done add beaten anise and parsely chopped fine
Finish off cooking

Friday, October 19, 2018

Recipe 7 Pickled Game (again with more notes)

I recently made this a second time in order to achieve the full effect of the pickling. I
coated the roasts in fat and used my oven in order to cook them.
220c for 20 min and an extra 10 min per 500 gm at 150c for a med rare, if you want it
more well done 15 min per 500 gm. For Crown tournament I prepared the meat 1
week in advance.

When increasing the amounts you do not need to multiply everything. for the "brine"
you need enough to cover it. for 7kg of meat I used 3 liters of vinegar and 2 liters of
honey. Some people may like it sweeter.

Spices are approximate as it may take more or less to get coverage of the meat.
When laying out the meat I used store bought ground clove instead of grinding it
myself. I did the same with the mace and used a pepper mill to crush the pepper
for the layers as well.


Koge Blog, 1616 Salomone Sartorio, Denmark
PDF from medievalcookery.com


Original: Page 11, recipe 11
Several kinds of game roasts to pickle
Take the game as it is larded/dripping’ed and well fried, let it go cold. Thereafter take
as much vinegar as can cover the same game, and also honey that is cleared, scummed
and well cleaned. Put as much of the same honey in the vinegar as you want it to be
sweet. In the same manner put in half crushed pepper, whole cloves and nutmeg flowers
crushed between the hands. Let it seethe well together half an hour. Thereafter pass the
same decoction through a hair sieve or a clean cloth. Take some of the same herbs with
thyme, marjoram, half crushed pepper and sprinkle in the bottom of the vessel the
Vildbrand should be put into. And then a layer of roast, then herbs again, and then
another layer of which you have any left, and put the decoction over it. Keep it well
covered with a lean cloth. When you want to use the roast don't pick it up with bare hands,
but with a fork so that what remains isn't spoiled and ruined. When you want to put the
roast on the table then pour the same sauce over it, as much as is needed.


My redaction
Pickled game meats
1 kg roast ( boar, deer, moose, elk, etc)
1 liter Vinegar
1 liter Honey
100 gm Peppercorns
30 Cloves, whole
1 Tablespoons Mace
2 Tablespoon Thyme, dry
2 Tablespoon Marjoram, dry


Roast the meat in the normal fashion
Cool and slice
Half crush half the peppercorns with the cloves add with made to the honey and vinegar
Simmer for ½ of an hour and strain
½crush the rest of the pepper and  mix with the thyme and marjoram
Sprinkle the bottom of your container ( non metal‼‼ ) with the new spice blend
Layer meat with a sprinkle of spice between each layer.
Cover with cooled vinegar mixture. Make sure the meat is completely submerged.
Cover with a cloth.


To serve: remove the meat and serve with a bit of the brine.

Note: it is not stated explicitly in the recipe if this is Served cold or warmed. My assumption
is that it is served at room / cellar temperature.

Friday, July 20, 2018

Recipe 9: armored capon

Libre del Coch, 1529 Ruperto de Nola, Spain, Translation by Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Found on Stefan’s Florilegium. Florilegium. Org, Guisados1-art - 1/13/09
Original: recipe Nr. 34
ARMORED CAPON
CAPON ARMADO

Bard (27) a capon, and roast it; and when it is half-roasted remove the barding fat.  And take egg yolks beaten with parsley and sugar, and let them be very well-beaten, and put these eggs all over the capon; and take pine nuts and peeled almonds, and while you put on the egg yolks, put on the pine nuts and almonds bit by bit in such a way that they will adhere to the sauce.  And then put the barding fat back on over the eggs and the capon. And it shall be upon the fire until it is completely roasted.

My redaction
1 whole chicken (about 2 kg)
6 Egg yolks
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons parsley
75-100 gm Pinenuts or almonds ( slivers or slices) or a combination
150 gm Fatty bacon

Weave the bacon into a blanket
Place over the chicken
Roast 45 min to an hour
Remove from oven set “blanket” aside
Brush egg yolk mixture over the chicken
Apply but so that they stick
Gently replace the blanket
Roast another 45 min
Remove blankets and roast until nuts have slight color about 10 minutes
This must be cooked in a dry oven! If there is moisture the armor (nuts) will slide off the birds!!!

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Recipe 8: rice casserole

Libre del Coach, 1529 Ruperto de Nola, Spain, Translation by Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Found on Stefan’s Florilegium. Florilegium. Org, Guisados1-art - 1/13/09
Original: recipe Nr. 58
RICE CASSEROLE IN THE OVEN
ARROZ EN CAZUELA AL HORNO

Clean the rice well of stones and filth, and wash it with two or three [changes of] cold water and then with hot water.  And after it is well-washed, set it to dry on a wooden chopping block in the sun or by the heat of the fire. And when it is dry, clean it again in such a manner that it is very clean; then take a very clean casserole and cast in good meat broth which is fatty, and set it to boil on the fire; and when it begins to boil, put in two or three threads of saffron so that the broth becomes quite yellow.  And when the broth is quite yellow, cast in the rice bit by bit, stirring it with a stick or with a large spoon; and when the rice is in the casserole cast in whatever quantity of broth that seems necessary to you to so that it cooks no more. and taste it to see that it is well-salted and fatty; and put it to cook in the oven; and a little before it finishes cooking, remove it from the oven and cast some whole fresh egg yolks over the rice.  And then return the casserole to the oven to finish cooking; and it is cooked when you see that the rice has made a good crust on top; and then prepare dishes, and in each one put one or two of the egg yolks which were upon the rice; and if by chance the oven was not prepared, put the casserole on a coal fire and put an iron lid full of coals on it; and in this manner it will come out of there as if it had been cooked in the oven, and perhaps better because it remains nearer for sampling, and this is good rice.
My redaction (without saffron due to allergy)
500 ml fatty meat broth
200 gm long grain rice
60 gm butter
4 eggs yolks

Cook rice in broth until almost done, approximately 50 min
Butter a casserole dish.
Melted the rest of the butter in a separate bowl
Pour rice into the casserole dish
Top with melted butter
Place egg yolks on top
Bake about 10 – 15 min at 200c until the top of the rice is crisp.

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Recipe 7: Pickled Game

Koge Blog, 1616 Salomone Sartorio, Denmark
PDF from medievalcookery.com

Original: Page 11, recipe 11
Several kinds of game roasts to pickle
Take the game as it is larded/dripping’ed and well fried, let it go cold. Thereafter take as much vinegar as can cover the same game, and also honey that is cleared, scummed and well cleaned. Put as much of the same honey in the vinegar as you want it to be sweet. In the same manner put in half crushed pepper, whole cloves and nutmeg flowers crushed between the hands. Let it seethe well together half an hour. Thereafter pass the same decoction through a hair sieve or a clean cloth. Take some of the same herbs with thyme, marjoram, half crushed pepper and sprinkle in the bottom of the vessel the Vildbrand should be put into. And then a layer of roast, then herbs again, and then another layer of which you have any left, and put the decoction over it. Keep it well covered with a lean cloth. When you want to use the roast don't pick it up with bare hands, but with a fork so that what remains isn't spoiled and ruined. When you want to put the roast on the table then pour the same sauce over it, as much as is needed.

My redaction
Pickled game meats
1 kg roast ( boar, deer, moose, elk, etc)
1 liter Vinegar
1 liter Honey
100 gm Peppercorns
30 Cloves, whole
1 Tablespoons Mace
2 Tablespoon Thyme, dry
2 Tablespoon Marjoram, dry

Roast the meat in the normal fashion
Cool and slice
Half crush half the peppercorns with the cloves add with made to the honey and vinegar
Simmer for ½ of an hour and strain
½crush the rest of the pepper and  mix with the thyme and marjoram
Sprinkle the bottom of your container ( non metal‼‼ ) with the new spice blend
Layer meat with a sprinkle of spice between each layer.
Cover with cooled vinegar mixture. Make sure the meat is completely submerged. Cover with a cloth.

To serve: remove the meat and serve with a bit of the brine.

Note: it is not stated explicitly in the recipe if this is Served cold or warmed. My assumption is that it is served at room / cellar temperature.